Camry amp install

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It's your turn. See bio. We will be calling you. We're sorry. We have encountered a problem. Sorry, the call-back feature is currently unavailable. Meet Jon Paul Close. Hybrid note A hybrid's gas-electric hybrid powertrain makes upgrading the stereo system a little more complicated.

As you might expect, Camry hybrids contain some very sensitive electronics, so here are a couple of things to keep in mind: Be sure to only use a multi-meter when testing wires, and NEVER use a test light to test wires in this vehicle. Doing so could cause some serious by which we mean dangerous and expensive damage.

A hybrid Camry is not the car to choose if you want to build a massively powerful audio system. The thirsty current draw of a high-powered stereo is not a good thing for the hybrid system, so don't exceed a amp current draw or watt RMS power rating.

In the hybrid Camry, the relevant vehicle system info will be displayed on the smaller dash screen. Detailed stereo and speaker removal instructions. Adding Dynamat to the doors will improve your Camry's overall sound. Find the audio gear that fits your car or truck Visit our Outfit My Car page and enter your vehicle information to see stereos, speakers, subs, and other audio accessories that will work in your vehicle.

Comments 19 Read comments. Jacob, With questions like that, it's always better to have a conversation with a real live human. Give us a call and talk to one of our advisors. We can help you choose the right gear and give you the right advice on how to install it. Brian, This can work, but but an iDatalink-ready car stereo is required to jeep all the good stuff. I've sent your question to our sales team, and they'll be contacting you via email soon.

For immediate help, you can contact them via phone or chat. Anthony, You're right -- the base system does not include an amp. Eric, With questions like that, it's always better to have a conversation with a real live human. Leonard, We'll be happy to help you find a new stereo. Allen, Thanks! If you have some time after you're done with the installation, visit our Custom Car Showroom and tell us all about your car and your system!

Xavier, Probably possible, but not at all recommended. With questions like this, it's always better to have a conversation with a real live human. Daniel, Not likely. If your Camry has the 7" LCD radio, you can upgrade to an aftermarket radio, but if you have the 8" version, replacement isn't possible at the moment.

Tom, With questions like that, it's always better to have a conversation with a real live human. Adam, With questions like that, it's always better to have a conversation with a real live human. Looking for car stereos? Shop our selection. The easiest way to shop car audio online Find what Fits your vehicle Remove. Checking fit Related products.

Bojo Trim Panel Tools. In stock. Dynamat Xtreme Door Kit. Crutchfield Vehicle-specific Instructions. Your amp's instructions will include a recommendation on what size wire to use. Or, you can check out How to determine the best size wire for help doing it yourself. Don't forget to measure all distances first, so you'll know what lengths of wire to get. The in-line fuse on the main power cable, mounted within six inches or so of the battery connection, is essential for protecting the wire, your car, and you from a catastrophic fire in the event of a short circuit.

Each wire manufacturer rates their wire's current capacity differently, but as a general rule, for a typical to foot run, you'll be safe using a:. The easiest way to get these items is with an amplifier wiring kit , which will include matching power, ground, turn-on wires, and fuse.

Amp wiring kits often don't include signal wiring. Your amplifier gets its input signals from the receiver's output typically via RCA cables. RCA cables come in stereo pairs, in various lengths. When running new speaker wires from your amplifier's output to the speakers, any size wire from to gauge will work fine. The lower the gauge number, the thicker the wire. For subwoofers, use to gauge wires. Use these guidelines to choose a location for mounting your amplifier.

A smart mounting location will help your installation go smoothly:. A compact subwoofer amplifier mounted in an out-of-the-way nook in a trunk with plenty of air space for cooling. All system wiring should be concealed for safety, and to give your installation a nice, finished look. Wires should be secured so that they do not interfere with safe vehicle operation.

Depending on the location you choose for your amplifier, the wiring may need to be run under the dash, door scuff plate, pillar trimpanel, or kickpanel. The instructions below address, in general, which panels may need to be removed and how they typically come off.

Often, panels can be pried up at the edges. You'll probably also need to remove some screws and retaining clips. To prevent damage, always use care when removing panels — a panel tool is helpful. The plates are usually removed by prying up the edges to release clips.

Some vehicles will have screws present which will need to be removed. A seat belt may be located on a panel that needs to be removed. Most seat belt anchor covers pry off. The seat belt anchor is secured with a large nut or bolt. Remove the seat belt if present. Remove screw covers, screws, and plastic retaining clips if present. Pry up the edges of the panel to remove it. Look for screws and pry-out retaining clips to remove. Pry out the edges of the panel to release and remove it.

When routing wire behind or under the dash, always secure it with plastic wire ties. Be sure that the wire doesn't interfere with any moving parts to ensure safe operation of the vehicle. With that background stuff covered, it's time to get to work. Gather up your gear and tools, maybe a friend and a soda, and give yourself plenty of time.

Set the parking brake and disconnect the negative terminal from your battery to prevent any electrical shorts or shocks. The power wire from your amp wiring kit usually feet in length needs to run from the battery, through your car's firewall, through the car's body to the amp. Find an unused grommet in the firewall or one that already has wires or cables passing through it and that has enough room for the power wire to fit through too.

Route the power wire from your amp wiring kit through a hole in your vehicle's firewall, using a grommet or bushing to prevent the insulation from scraping against metal. If you can't find an existing grommet, you'll have to drill a hole through the firewall. Make sure you don't drill into any electrical or gas lines — check both sides of the firewall. Use a grommet to protect your wire from fraying and shorting as it passes through the hole. The power wire from your amp wiring kit may have a fuse holder installed.

If so, go to Step 5. If not, find a good spot close to your battery to place your fuse-holder included in the kit — less than 6" from the battery is best. Be aware: even after a fuse blows, the short stretch of cable between the battery and the fuse holder will still be live and a potential fire hazard in the event of an accident.

Anchor the fuse holder to a suitable spot with a screw or cable tie, so it won't hang loose or bounce around. Cut a short piece off the end of the power wire to cover the distance from the battery to the fuse holder location , and strip the insulation off both ends with a wire stripper. Crimp the terminal ring included in the kit onto one end of the short piece of wire, and attach the fuse holder onto the other end.

Strip the insulation off the end of the power wire that leads into the passenger compartment, and connect it to the other end of the fuse holder. When powering multiple amplifiers, you run a single heavy-gauge power cable from your battery to a distribution block , and then connect a lighter-gauge cable from the block to each amplifier. This arrangement minimizes potential noise problems and keeps your installation looking neat.

Make sure the main power cable is thick enough that it can handle the total current draw of all the amplifiers. Check out our amplifier wiring diagram to see how the wiring gets connected in a typical 2-amp system. Attach the power cable to the positive battery terminal not directly to the battery post itself. For top-mounted battery posts, the most common way to do this is to crimp a ring terminal onto the end of the power cable many cables in wiring kits come with it already attached.

Remove the battery terminal's nut, slip the power cable's ring over the bolt that secures the battery terminal to the battery post, and replace the nut. For GM vehicles with a side-mount post, we offer terminal adapters that work nicely. A wire loom provides added protection for your wire against the high heat inside the engine compartment. If your kit includes a wire loom, thread it over the power cable until it reaches the firewall and cut to fit.

Thread another piece over the short power wire running from the fuse holder to the battery. As near to the amplifier's location as possible, find a bolt to your vehicle's metal frame to use for ground. If you can't find a convenient ground screw or bolt, drill a hole for one — be careful not to drill into any wiring, the gas tank, or a gas or brake line.

Crimp a ring terminal usually included with the amp kit to the short piece of ground cable also in the kit. Scrape away any paint and clean the bolt location thoroughly, and then bolt the terminal tightly to the vehicle's metal chassis so the ground connection will be bare metal to bare metal. Use a lock washer, a star washer, extra screws, and any other technique or device that'll keep this connection tight, clean, and electrically conducting.

Many people even coat the final connection with silicone caulk to prevent corrosion. Improper or loose grounding is the 1 cause of amplifier problems. The turn-on wire also called the remote wire is located behind the stereo. On aftermarket stereos, it's usually a blue and white wire. The remote wire will "tell" your amplifier to turn on whenever the stereo is powered up usually, whenever the vehicle is turned on.

You'll have to remove the stereo to get to this wire. Locate the remote turn-on lead behind your radio usually a blue and white wire , and connect the turn-on lead from your amplifier wiring kit to it. Strip the insulation off a small section of this wire coming from the radio and the turn-on lead that came with your wiring kit and connect them together via solder, a crimp connector, or a Posi-Connector. If, like a factory radio, your radio doesn't have a remote turn-on output, then you can get the turn-on signal from your vehicle's fuse box.

Because of its low current demand, you can connect your turn-on lead to almost any fused output terminal, like the one for the radio itself for instance, as long as it only powers up when the vehicle's on.

You'll need to route the turn-on lead to your amplifier through the car's body — it's often easiest to route the turn-on wire with the RCA cables next step but you can also route it with the power wire after it passes through the firewall. The power and RCA cables should run on opposite sides of the vehicle, to reduce noise — but it won't matter for the turn-on lead's low current.

Route the patch cables to the opposite side of the vehicle from the power cable. It's important to separate the patch cables from the power wires as much as possible to avoid potential noise problems. Now you can partially re-install the radio in the dash. Avoid completely re-installing it if you can, in case you need to fix a problem later.

If you're using a factory radio with no RCA outputs, you can get your amplifier's input signals from the factory speaker wiring. The speakers will be getting their signal from the new amplifier — which leaves the radio's outputs available to use for the amp's inputs.

There are two ways to do this: get a line output converter LOC that'll adjust the speaker-level signal for your amp's input, or get an amplifier with speaker-level inputs. You cut the factory speaker wires behind the radio, and connect the wires coming from the radio to your LOC or amp's inputs. Learn more about line output converters.

Now you have to provide a way for the music to get from your new amp to the speakers. The best way to do that is to run a new speaker wire from each amplifier output to each speaker. Use or gauge wire for speakers, or gauge for subwoofers.

Speaker-level signals are not very prone to picking up interference, so it's okay to run your speaker wires near power cables. Please select the options you wish to add on to your plug and play amp kit. The TXD 4 channel amplifier is required. Please note your stock speakers are not setup to handle this much power. So be sure to check out our plug and play speaker upgrade options. In addition, we even offer turnkey packages to install a complete audio system in your Toyota Tacoma.

If you are planning to use your own speakers, be sure to check out our plug and play wire harness adapters. Our harness adapters plug directly in the stock wiring. Be sure to check out our videos on how to install component speakers in your Tacoma. Check out the complete plug and play step here:. The products we use have been bench and field tested to ensure you are getting the maximum power delivered to your amplifiers.

There are a number of factors that are not addressed in our calculation above. If you are going to use your own install kit, be sure to do your homework. The calculation above is taking into account a maximum of 15 feet from the battery to the distribution block.

We will NOT provide any assistance with this product. These may work with your amp. Speaker line out to RCA adapter line out converter Related. Additional information Camry Year Year , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , Camry Amp Harness 1 Weight.

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