How to install sump pump in yard




















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Back Yard Sump Pump. Sump Pump Drainage System. Sump Pump Failure. Outdoor Sump Pump. Sump Pump Pit. BackYard Drainage Solutions. Sump Pump Discharge. Place, or replace, some coarse gravel in the bottom of the hole, so that the sump liner sits flush with the basement floor when placed in the hole. This gravel will promote good drainage, and help water move into the sump where it can be pumped away instead of moving into your basement at another spot. It may be difficult to dig the sump if the soil is sandy and wet.

If water infiltration is causing the hole to erode there are a few options. You can wait for the soil to dry, dig faster than the water enters or use a garden hose. For the garden hose method, you will need to place the sump liner in the started hole and fill it with water. Then use a garden hose and push it under the liner. The water from the hose will push the sand out from under the liner and will stop the erosion. The weight of the liner will cause it to fall in the void underneath.

As the liner drops into the ground you may have to wiggle the liner to keep it straight Depending on the liner used, you may have to drill numerous holes in the sump liner to allow water to enter so the pump can pump it away. The drilled holes should be smaller in diameter than the size of gravel used so that gravel does not come through.

Seat the liner in the hole. Place gravel around the sides of the sump liner, coming up to about 6" below the level of the floor. Concrete back over the floor. Mix your concrete , and pour a 6-inch layer of concrete over the gravel, filling in the floor up to the edge of the sump liner. Trowel the concrete to achieve a smooth surface.

After the concrete has set up reasonably well at least 8 hours , you may resume working on the sump. Part 3. Assemble the PVC piping from the sump pump outlet through your home's rim joist. Most pumps use 1.

Leave a short stub of PVC pipe on the outside, you can attach a flexible hose to go the rest of the way. When assembling the piping, be sure to dry-fit the entire section before gluing anything. Work in a well ventilated space, to minimize exposure to the solvent fumes and complete the seals with caulking agent on both the inside and outside contact points. The particular couplings will depend upon your house and foundation, which makes this a job for a fairly experienced DIY plumber.

It's usually best to bore from the outside in, using a 2 inch 5. Install the pump. Place the pump in the liner, attach the final section of pipe, and plug your pump in. The diameter of the drilled holes must be smaller than the size of the gravel used so that no gravel can enter the sump liner.

Check the float position. Pumps come with different types of floats, but for any type it is important to ensure that the float on the pump is unobstructed so that it can rise and fall with the water level in the sump.

As water flows into the sump the float needs to be able to rise to a level that will activate the pump switch and fall back down without getting stuck between the pump and the sump liner wall. Usually it is a simple matter of just centering the pump in the sump liner, but it is best to double check your set up.

Install your check valve. Most check valves come with hose clamps and couplings, which feature directional arrows. Fix it appropriately on the riser and tighten it with a screwdriver.

Plug in the pump and test your job. Fill a bucket with water and wet-test your rig. Check the piping for leaks and make sure it empties outside like you want it to, and that your check valve functions correctly when you shut it off.

If you have water coming out of the top of the sump pit, the pump is not working properly. Not Helpful 2 Helpful A few inches above the pump exit, in the disharge piping, deep in the pit, there should be a bleeder hole. This hole prevents airlock and it reduces the starting surge current. By having this water drain, the pump doesn't need to push on as much static water to get going. Not Helpful 14 Helpful It can vibrate greatly while pushing water; the plastic tub presents a slippery surface alone.

The pump should sit at the lowest level possible in the pit to drain the first signs of rising water. Not Helpful 13 Helpful Why would someone install a Y-Joint in the PVC running from the pump below the level of the concrete floor?

A good drawing could assist in understanding the concept behind this set up, the wye is most likely used to pick up or remove fluid at a level lower than the base of the pump. This works as what some people call a jet pump works on what is called a venturi principle. Not Helpful 3 Helpful 8. Drill holes around the outer surface of the bucket to allow ground water to seep into the bucket. The holes should be smaller than the stones you place in the surrounding hole so they can't slip into the bucket and damage the pump.

Not Helpful 4 Helpful Most do it 6 inches or so above the sump pit lid. You don't want it buried in a wall in the event you need to replace it in the future. Not Helpful 5 Helpful 8. This is a pump, not a DWV situation. The line will stay full of water when the pump is off, so a downward slope not needed.

You can put one in, but it's unnecessary. Not Helpful 8 Helpful You shouldn't attach it to your main drain. The reason is, if it floods and the sewers back up, you will have water back feed into your house. It should be a separate, designated line that goes out the side of your house a minimum of 10' away.

The check valve allows water flow only in one direction. It allows water to be discharged through the discharge piping when the pump provides pressure. When the water level drops and the pump shuts off, the check valve prevents the water already in the discharge pipe from draining back into the pump and causing it to keep running.

Install the check valve in the right direction so it allows discharge and not drain-back. Not Helpful 5 Helpful 9. I have two pipes coming into the side of the sump. Are both inlet, or is one outlet? These, if they are larger i. They are both inlet.

The interior weeping system is made up of pipes that are perforated to collect ground water, installed next to the foundation wall and below the footing, sloped towards the sump pit, covered in gravel and then cement. The water bubbles up from below your house, enters the hollow opening of the pipes, and flows down these pipes via gravity to the sump pit to be pumped out by a pump to either the exterior to the house or into the house sewer line.

If your basement is unfinished, you should see evidence of newer concrete laid in a band about 18" out from your foundation wall. You need a pump. Not Helpful 1 Helpful 2. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. Use a flexible rubber connector in the piping to allow removal and service, it will also reduce noise.

Helpful 1 Not Helpful 1. Put a filter membrane around the liner or under if using a bottom less liner to keep sediment from getting into the pump.

Helpful 1 Not Helpful 0. Install a mechanical clamp in between the pump and liner to service the pump. Helpful 0 Not Helpful 1. Consider adding a battery backup sump pump system. It will add a 12 volt dc pump and a "deep cycle" battery with a charger, float switch switch and a " high water" alarm. If you lose power during a heavy rainstorm when your pump is likely to be activated , you could end up with a wet basement. The battery will power the second pump until the battery runs down or the power comes back on.

Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0. The majority of sump pumps are electrically powered. Another type of pump uses potable water to siphon flood water.

These types of pumps usually require a double check valve in the potable water system to avoid contamination. Submit a Tip All tip submissions are carefully reviewed before being published. Use hearing and dust protection during concrete cutting. Helpful 10 Not Helpful Helpful 4 Not Helpful 8.



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